When Mother Wolf opened in LA in 2022, it seemed to be that getting an Oscar was easier than securing a reservation. Evan Funke’s signature brand of Roman pasta brought stateside captured Hollywood’s glitterati and the waiting list was beyond comprehension.
Now, the Angeleno chef has, he hopes, packaged up that success and catapulted over to Florida with the launch of Mother Wolf Miami. Opened on October 5, Mother Wolf has found an East Coast home in Miami’s Design District – seemingly a mecca for hot-shot restaurants. Bringing with it all the buzz of the LA original, the new spot is once again a riot of crimson hues, dark wood paneling and seriously jazzy wallpaper – no holds barred, here. Oh, and there’s a serious pasta menu to boot, of course.
“I’m excited to be bringing the mosaic of culinary traditions of Rome to Miami, a city that is overflowing with culture and endless experiences,” says Funke.
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Despite being a born-and-bred Angeleno, two-time James Beard award winner Funke has been dubbed as a custodian of Italian cuisine. The Santa Monica-born chef learned the way of classic Italian cookery – with a focus on pasta – at the revered La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese in Bologna, and brought back a deep respect of its traditions to the States.
His restaurant empire is mighty: there’s the eponymous Funke in Beverly Hills, as well as Felix in Venice (the California version; not Italy) and Dre Tita in Chicago. While the Mother Wolf concept began its life in LA, it has now multiplied – there’s a Vegas outpost as well as the new Miami baby.
He has also published his own cookbook, American Sfoglino, and appeared in several cookery-focussed television shows. Cementing his status as chef to the stars, Funke is also the official culinary brains behind the annual Vanity Fair Oscar Party.
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For all the hype, Funke has, for the most part, stayed true to Mother Wolfe’s Italian (specifically Roman) influences – so much so that you might need some help with translating a few dishes.
Funke’s signature focaccia leads the way, laden with lashes of extra virgin olive oil and a heavy sprinkling of salt. Before you even get to the headline pastas, there are small plates (or ‘Stuzzi e sfizi’) – short rib meatballs, parmesan croquettes and beef tartare with egg yolk. Then there’s antipasti and woodfired pizzas.
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Finally, we get to that famous pasta. Handmade on-site in the ‘pasta lab’ (which guests are required to walk past before taking their seat, the 12-strong lineup includes Funke’s famous pepper-heavy cacio e pepe, as well as the links of wild boar ragu with pappardelle, vongole linguine and carbonara with rigatoni. Get a group together and share a few for the ultimate experience. If you can manage it, in true Italian style, the menu follows with grilled fish and hunks of steak.
The wine program is 400-labels strong, with the team having focussed on Italian family-run producers and emerging estates. Cocktails more your thing? Fear not – Mother Wolf has an extensive list of Italian-inspired serves (but you can’t go wrong with an Aperol spritz).
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The interior maestros at London-based Martin Brudnizki Design Studio were brought on to bring Mother Wolf Miami to life. Running with a ‘Rome-meets-Miami’ brief, the space opens with a dramatic water feature inspired by Rome’s iconic water fountains. Next comes the bar, complete with Italian terrazzo flooring, before opening out onto the main dining room.
Framed by an open kitchen, the space is lively and theatrical. Leather banquettes sit alongside velvetine booths, while olive trees and ornate drapes work to create distinct dining areas. For large groups, there’s a grand wood-paneled private dining room.
Mother Wolf Miami, 3841 NE 2nd Ave, Miami, FL 33137, motherwolfmiami.com