I didn’t have myself down as a trainspotter until we checked into Four Seasons Marunouchi. Tucked among the financial district’s skyscrapers, the hotel is next door to Tokyo Station: the main Shinkansen intercity hub. From our room up on the fifth floor, there was something oddly hypnotic about watching the shiny white bullet trains glide into the terminal below.
A quick warning: navigating the sprawling station can be tricky. It’s well worth making the most of the hotel’s complimentary platform pick-up service so you don’t get lost (let the Four Seasons team know your platform number and they’ll be waiting to escort you directly to the hotel on your arrival).
With just 57 rooms, Four Seasons Marunouchi is considerably smaller than the Otomachi sister hotel. It’s also more low-key; unlike Tokyo’s big, glitzy hotels, interiors are pared back and cozy with plenty of sleek wood and plush velvet. A rarity in the planet’s busiest city, the hotel has an intimate feel that belies its bustling location. It’s the type of place that lets you soak up the atmosphere – the views ensure you could only be in Tokyo – while offering a space for total relaxation.
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Above all, the rooms at Four Seasons Marunouchi are extremely comfortable. We stayed in a generously sized Deluxe King Room with floor-to-ceiling windows revealing sweeping views across the tracks at Tokyo Station (not all rooms have station views so be sure to request one if you fancy some transporting).
Despite being fairly close to the ground – the hotel occupies floors three to seven of the building – rooms are quiet thanks to the triple glazing. You can still hear the trains so light sleepers may want to request a room on the other side of the building that doesn’t face the station.
Decorated in soothing shades of cream and gray, with supersoft carpets and gauzy drapes, you can’t help but feel a sense of calm from the moment you step through the door. Bathrooms are spacious (ours had a tub and shower) with dark tiled floors, and the king-size beds are extra comfy. If you need more space, rooms can be connected to neighboring suites to accommodate larger groups.
When it comes to food, you’re in for a real treat. Helmed by executive chef Daniel Calvert, the hotel’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Sezanne, serves inventive French cuisine like foie gras with Madeira jelly and ris de veau (sweetbreads) with pea shoots and preserved lemon.
If you’re looking for something a bit more casual, book a table at Maison Marunouchi. Andre Fu was brought in to put his stamp on the art deco-inspired interiors: expect green leather booths, bronze-hued lamps and dark wooden tables. If you can wrangle the table in the private room at the end it’s worth it; the views over the twinkling skyline are remarkable. The menu is filled with bistro classics. Standout dishes include the enormous tub of caviar served with pillowy blinis and the restaurant’s signature fried chicken.
Breakfast is also served here in the morning; you can choose from the Japanese breakfast (an assortment of grilled fish, miso soup, seaweed and homemade pickled veg) or opt for the Western alternative which includes all the classic staples from French toast to smoked salmon bagels. There’s also an excellent continental breakfast buffet with a selection of homemade yogurts, yuzu jams and bircher muesli.
Alongside a surprisingly spacious gym looking over downtown Tokyo, Four Seasons Marunouchi is home to a tranquil spa complete with a traditional onsen and sauna.
Expert therapists are on hand to carry out an array of soothing treatments. The two-hour massage and rose oil facial left me feeling completely rested (and with a dewy glow). If you’re after an all-out pamper session, consider booking the Four Seasons Tokyo Spa Journey. It’s an all-encompassing 180-minute session that includes a variety of treatments specially tailored to your needs.
The hotel is ideally located for exploring Tokyo; an array of gourmet restaurants, noodle bars and high-end shopping malls are within walking distance. It’s also around 20 minutes by foot to the Imperial Palace. Tours run daily, 10am to 1.30pm.
As well as museum trips and city tours, Four Seasons offers a range of experiences including a day trip in a luxury van exploring Mount Fuji and a journey to the seaside city of Kamakura to visit the temples and shrines.